Berkswell's production began in the early 1990s, first as a vaguely Caerphillyish recipe, before things evolved to its current barnacle-covered flying saucer shape, a signature of draining the curd in old plastic colanders. Its flavor changes considerably over the course of the year; spring wheels early in the year have the berries-and-cream sweetness of strawberry shortcake, while later-season fall wheels take a distinct savory lamby turn. You may love one season of the cheese and hate the other, and that's a wonder of small-batch farmhouse cheese well worth exploring for yourself.